The Dive Watch of the Future

How Rado updated a classic timepiece with new innovations.
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One of the original dive watches is getting a high-tech upgrade from an unusual material: ceramic.

In 1962, Rado, the Swiss watchmaker, launched its Captain Cook dive watch, a sleek, simple timepiece that could seamlessly transition from the office to the beach. A classic of its era, the watch was reissued for the next ten years, and then vanished from production. Instead, Rado began crafting timepieces using a specific type of high-tech ceramic, which is exceptionally strong, so much so that soldiers have used it for body armor.

This year, however, Rado revived the classic Captain Cook, with a futuristic twist—making the watch with the company’s high-tech ceramic for the first time, an upgrade that blends timeless fashion with cutting-edge durability and comfort. 

Reviving a Legend in High Tech 

In 1986, Rado became the first watchmaker to use ceramic in a timepiece, setting a new standard for strength, style, and comfort. For decades, watchmakers had used stainless steel for their timepieces. But the material had a flaw: it scratched easily. Ceramic, by contrast, is difficult to mar. Using zirconium oxide, a ceramic material with tiny pores, Rado engineers crafted a groundbreaking timepiece that was both lightweight and resistant to moisture and temperature. Ceramic is so strong and versatile that it’s even used by surgeons for hip replacements. Sleek and more durable than metal, Rado’s watches kick-started a trend that would be emulated across the industry.

Nobody, however, makes ceramic watches better than the original. So, nearly sixty years after the debut of the Captain Cook, Rado is reissuing the classic dive watch—this time crafted with plasma high-tech ceramic in an 11-step process. The techniques are a mix of both classic artisan approach and future-leaning technology. First, a mold is created from drawings by the Rado designer. The mold is then injected with the ceramic and the case is hardened in an oven at 2,642 degrees Farenheit for several hours. The polymer evaporates as the ceramic stiffens, acquires color, and shrinks by 23 percent to reach its final size. After being polished for several days, sandblasted, and engraved, the ceramic then undergoes an additional two steps: it gets a second blast in the oven, where the white color is transformed to a darker shade and finish, and it's injected with plasma for a metallic look (although with no actual metal content). Finally, the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic emerges—a true modernization of a classic.

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Four Groundbreaking Versions of the Dive Watch

Beyond its material, the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic watch is also notable for its cutting-edge case machinery, which comes in four different models. The 43mm case for each model is powered by a Nivachron hairspring, an antimagnetic timekeeper that exceeds the standard test requirements of up to five positions for higher accuracy. The box-shaped sapphire crystal is also the most complex shape produced in the industry, offering a clear view into the inner workings of the skeletonized movement. Every model has its own variations—a ceramic bracelet, a rubber strap, a rose-gold bezel, a plasma high-tech ceramic finish—but all offer the same renowned durability and style that made the original Captain Cook a classic. 

With 80 hours of power in reserve, 300 meters of dive resistance, and SuperLuminova dial hands that provide clear visibility around the clock, the Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic is a true classic reimagined to last for the next sixty years, setting a new standard for both everyday wear and adventure.

This story was produced by WIRED Brand Lab for Rado.