The Best Audio Interfaces for Home Recording or Podcasting
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I am firmly a member of the home recording revolution. Over the past decade or so, I've gone from making rough-and-tumble mixes on a simple four-channel tape deck to dozens of channels, outboard gear, and about a mile of microphone and patch cables. The technology has skyrocketed, even in the decade I've been recording regularly at home, with fast and faster (and easier, easier-to-use, better-sounding) recording devices being released by virtually every major pro audio brand.
The issue? That makes it hard to choose the best audio interface for you. While you can very nearly throw a dart at Sweetwater's product list to find what you need, we've put each of the below devices through their paces, aiming to tell you what makes each unique.
As usual, be sure to check out our other audio coverage, including the Best Audio Recording Software, Best USB Mics, and Best Headphones, as well as our tips on how to improve audio quality.
How We Test Audio Interfaces
We test audio interfaces by using them. Many WIRED staffers and contributors are professionally trained musicians and hobbyists, and we are constantly making and recording music. We typically put these devices through their paces doing exactly what they advertise doing best, whether that's checking each mic preamp to make sure they sound good, to testing instrument I/O and MIDI capabilities, where applicable. Some of these devices even come with dedicated plugins and software, which makes testing them with our laptops and DAWs of choice key.
Larger multi-channel interfaces are tested with multiple mics connected at once, and smaller devices are also tested for their maximum inputs and outputs. We typically use standard XLR cables, dynamic, condenser, and ribbon mics, along with testing instrument DIs on guitars and keyboards.
How Much Does an Audio Interface Matter?
These days? They all sound pretty awesome in terms of providing decent signal-to-noise ratio from mic preamps and instrument inputs, and good analog-to-digital conversion. It's more about what features you need in an interface.
Are you looking to record a keyboard or guitar and a vocal, or are you looking to record an entire drum set? Do you have outboard gear you would like to connect? What about keyboards or other audio interfaces? This can all impact what you choose to buy.
Some audio interfaces are also better integrated to certain software or use cases; some of the devices below are tiny and meant to throw in a bag, some of them are designed to be screwed into a rack mount, and some are great on a desktop. It all depends what you're trying to do. Spending more on an interface doesn't necessarily mean you'll make better records. It’s more about the source than what hardware you use to record it. This isn't like cameras: Plenty of real professional folks record amazing-sounding things with affordable interfaces like the ones below.
What about Microphones, Headphones, and Cables?
Apart from your acoustic space and the player or person you're trying to record, one of the most important choices you can make is what microphone to use. I recommend starting with a standard dynamic microphone like a Shure SM57 ($108) or SM58 ($109) and moving up to a larger diaphragm condenser mic like the Audio-Technica AT2020 ($119) for instruments like acoustic guitar, vocals, and piano (as well as essentially everything else you could want to record) when you have a bit more cash to do so. Down the line, you can explore things like ribbon microphones and small diaphragm condensers, but a simple dynamic/condenser pair is more than enough to make the vast majority of records, so long as you're not recording a drum kit.
If you are recording a drum kit? I highly recommend just starting with a microphone pack like this one from AKG ($481). They aren't the highest-end mics on the planet, but they're more than enough to get good drum sounds when first starting out, so long as you can play and tune your drums the way you like them.
For headphones, I recommend you snag a nice wired pair of closed-back over-ears like those from Beyerdynamic or Sony. These allow less bleed from what you're listening to (and recording over) into the microphone.
As for cables and stands: They really don't matter that much if you're not constantly messing with them. I recommend getting either colored cables or ones with colored ends, because it really helps visually remind you what is going where when you have lots of cables going everywhere. For stands? I actually love a simple swing-top desktop mic stand ($22) if I'm just recording vocals, percussion, or acoustic guitars. If I need something for a heavier mic or for a more open space, I prefer K&M stands ($102). They're a bit more expensive than Amazon specials, but they're very durable; I have yet to break one.
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